Bravo 3 problems

[Dave R]

Looking at a used boat witha 2000 Bravo 3 drive. I hear they have severe corrosion issues but am wondering how well the work in Winnipesaukee water. Any information would be appreciated.

[jeffk]

I have used my Bravo 3 drive in the lake since 1994. I haven't had what I consider excessive corrosion problems or other problems that I considered unusual. Last year I noticed I was using gear lube and the propeller shaft had to be replaced due to wear. I didn't think that was too bad after 10 years but it wasn't cheap to repair (almost $3K). I like the drive. Good torque and handling.

[Mee-n-Mac]

We have a 2000 B3 and to date haven't seen any abnormal corrosion. (knock on wood, err, gelcoat) I believe most, though not all, complaints stemmed from use in salt water. The problem is real, just perhaps not so prevalent in Winni water. I would be more worried if the boat is to be left in a marina due to shore power leakage currents. I also heard that Mercruiser changed the B3 design in the later yr 2000 models to reduce the quantity of non-matching (galvanically speaking) metals. Perhaps the boat in question is one of the later versions ? Find out if you can and also use magnesium anodes ("zincs") in Winni waters. I'm as interested as you to see how B3's have fared here on the lake ... hoping that you'll get many responses (good or bad).

[Rinkerfam]

Merc. seems to have the most comprehensive anti-corrosion system of the stern drive manufacturers. They employ an active electronic anti-corrosion system called Mercathode. Newer Bravo III drives also feature an additional sacrificial anode on the anticavitation plate and on the prop-shaft. I am not sure what model year these additional anodes were introduced. Merc. also uses a multi-step paint system and ceramic coating to resist corrosion. My advice is: Make sure the anodes are zinc, inspect them for signs of deterioration (replace if necessary) and have the Mercathode checked to see if it is functioning properly. I'd be willing to bet that one of the most often overlooked maintenance items on a boat are the sacrificial anodes.

[Biggus]

The B3 is a pretty stout unit but the have a tendency to wear out the gimbal ring/swivel pin joint if not torqued atleast once or twice a season. Actually, I'm in the process right now of replacing the gimbal ring on a friends 2000 288 Bayliner.

[Dave R]

Thanks for the info folks. No longer concerned about corrosion.

Biggus, any chance some Loc-Tite would resolve the gimbal ring/swivel pin issue?