Engine Starting Problem

[Mink Islander]

My I/O bowrider has an intermittant problem starting. Infrequently, when you turn the ignition, the engine starts to turn over but quickly binds up. Turn the ignition again, it will bind up again but after several tries it will turnover more and more until it ultimately starts normally. Last weekend it took several tries to get the engine to turn over at all and after about 7-10 tries it turned over normally and started up.

What could be causing this? Failing starter motor? Thanks for the help.

[AC2717]

I would start with the solenoid on the starter,
could be as simple as taking the connections off, cleaning it up with a wire brush so they are nice and shinny copper and then putting them back on

If this does not work, then could be the Bendix in the starter, you can take the starter off and bring it to a Autozone and they will test the starter for you to check the insides.
Or if you wanted, as soon as the engine "binds up" do the old one or two smacks on the end of the starter with a hammer. if you have to do this and it works then the inside of the starter is no good


that is where I would start.....

[ishoot308]

Besides what AC2717 has mentioned, make sure your battery is fully charged. A weak battery can cause some starters to bind.

Just a thought...

Good Luck!

Dan

[VitaBene]

I would start with the solenoid on the starter,
could be as simple as taking the connections off, cleaning it up with a wire brush so they are nice and shinny copper and then putting them back on

If this does not work, then could be the Bendix in the starter, you can take the starter off and bring it to a Autozone and they will test the starter for you to check the insides.
Or if you wanted, as soon as the engine "binds up" do the old one or two smacks on the end of the starter with a hammer. if you have to do this and it works then the inside of the starter is no good


that is where I would start.....

If you go to Autozone and need a starter, please don't let them sell you a non-marine model.

[AC2717]

If you go to Autozone and need a starter, please don't let them sell you a non-marine model.

is true, i agree sorry about that part, but they will just test it, I would not by a non marine one either

thank you for adding this part

[NoBozo]

Remove the battery cables from the battery and clean the posts AND inside the connectors..re-install.

BTW: The reason NOT to use a Non Marine starter is because the automotive types are NOT Explosion Proof like marine starters. A spark from a Non Marine starter could set off any gasoline fumes lurking in the bilge and make a spectacular incident..:D NB

[spider22]

Remove the battery cables from the battery and clean the posts AND inside the connectors..re-install.

BTW: The reason NOT to use a Non Marine starter is because the automotive types are NOT Explosion Proof like marine starters. A spark from a Non Marine starter could set off any gasoline fumes lurking in the bilge and make a spectacular incident..:D NB
that would be great on the fourth of July!!!!!!

[Mink Islander]

Appreciate the suggestions.

[Dave R]

I do not think your problem is electrical. I suspect your engine is hydro-locking with cooling water that is filling one or more cylinders through open exhaust valves. When you try to start it, the engine turns over until the water filled cylinder is on a compression stroke. As the piston in the flooded cylinder approaches TDC, the incompressible water stops it cold, and that puts an immediate halt on the starting process. When you keep trying to start it, the normal lack of a perfect seal in the valves and cylinder allows enough leakdown of the water to eventually let the engine spin over. Once it starts, the water clears very rapidly and the engine runs normally.

The two most common causes of marine engine hydro-locking are rapid deceleration combined with failed or missing exhaust shutters which allows water to rush up the exhaust sytem and pool in the exhaust side of the manifolds, or failed parts in the upper sections of the exhaust system that also allows water to pool in the exhaust side of the manifolds. Those parts include: manifold, elbow, riser (if equipped), or a gasket in between any of the listed parts. When you shut the engine off the pooled water goes right into any cylider with an open exhaust valve. If the engine happens to stop with the affected cylinder's exhaust valve closed, the problem does not occur.

You need to address this immediately. If the hydro-locked cylinder ever stops the engine after another cylinder has fired, the sudden stop can bend a connecting rod. Also, the water in there is certainly not doing your engine any good...

[Formula260SS]

I do not think your problem is electrical. I suspect your engine is hydro-locking with cooling water that is filling one or more cylinders through open exhaust valves. When you try to start it, the engine turns over until the water filled cylinder is on a compression stroke. As the piston in the flooded cylinder approaches TDC, the incompressible water stops it cold, and that puts an immediate halt on the starting process. When you keep trying to start it, the normal lack of a perfect seal in the valves and cylinder allows enough leakdown of the water to eventually let the engine spin over. Once it starts, the water clears very rapidly and the engine runs normally.

The two most common causes of marine engine hydro-locking are rapid deceleration combined with failed or missing exhaust shutters which allows water to rush up the exhaust sytem and pool in the exhaust side of the manifolds, or failed parts in the upper sections of the exhaust system that also allows water to pool in the exhaust side of the manifolds. Those parts include: manifold, elbow, riser (if equipped), or a gasket in between any of the listed parts. When you shut the engine off the pooled water goes right into any cylider with an open exhaust valve. If the engine happens to stop with the affected cylinder's exhaust valve closed, the problem does not occur.

You need to address this immediately. If the hydro-locked cylinder ever stops the engine after another cylinder has fired, the sudden stop can bend a connecting rod. Also, the water in there is certainly not doing your engine any good...


That's exactly what I thought, I had a boat years ago that had a cracked exhaust manifold and had the same problem.

[Irrigation Guy]

Could be as drastic as mentioned but might be as simple as moisture inside the distributor cap causing a misfire and firing a cylinder at the wrong time. I always start with the easy less costly resolutions and hope its not a more serious problem.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

[Mink Islander]

Appreciate the advise. Will have it checked out.

[NoBozo]

Could be as drastic as mentioned but might be as simple as moisture inside the distributor cap causing a misfire and firing a cylinder at the wrong time. I always start with the easy less costly resolutions and hope its not a more serious problem.


This has Always worked for me... an Old (70) Frugal Yankee.

No need to buy a new engine when a new distributor cap might just do the trick. :D NB

[Cal]

I agree with Dave. Same thing happened to me but I replaced the starter with a hi torque starter and ripped up the ring gear. When I pulled the engine to change the ring gear I replaced the exhaust...problem solved.
Mine was leaking between the manifold and the elbow of stock merc exhaust. It would hydrolock after sitting an hour or two. A quick restart was always ok.

[Rattlesnake Guy]

We had the issue that Dave described last year. Scared the heck out of me but they fixed it up for a few hundred bucks and the engine has never run better. I seem to remember RG corresponding with Dave during our deep depression period. In our case we stripped out the gear on the starter (thank God).

I could have sworn the motor ran backwards pulling the water in as I tried to start it. Eventually I came to realize that it was getting worse and to continue trying to start it was going to cost me a lot of money. We got fairly Lucky.

[ApS]

I would start with the solenoid on the starter,
could be as simple as taking the connections off, cleaning it up with a wire brush so they are nice and shinny copper and then putting them back on

If this does not work, then could be the Bendix in the starter, you can take the starter off and bring it to a Autozone and they will test the starter for you to check the insides.
Or if you wanted, as soon as the engine "binds up" do the old one or two smacks on the end of the starter with a hammer. if you have to do this and it works then the inside of the starter is no good

that is where I would start.....
Check to see that the bolts are present, and your starter isn't falling out! :eek: