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XCR-700
08-01-2010, 11:05 PM
Hi Folks,

Looking for some real world experience based advice, started what I thought was going to be a very limited repair to a small section of rotted floor in my CVX and ended up finding wet and soft wood in the transom.

I know that this is not an uncommon situation on any older boat and a common repair done by both pros and amateurs alike with great success. The challenging part is the unique layout of the transom on this boat. Unfortunately I also don’t have a garage, so it will be an outdoor repair and I really don’t have the time and inclination to separate the hull top and bottom. So I’m looking at best options for a DIY repair from inside the boat.

A coworker had suggested applying one of the penetrating epoxys to existing wood in the transom and then reinforcing it from the inside with another layer of wood and fiberglass cloth and epoxy. In addition to not knowing if the marketing hype about penetrating epoxys is legit or snake-oil, and due to the layout of the transom and splashwell I would not be able to reinforce the part of the transom sandwiched between the splashwell and the outer hull, I am a bit uneasy about this one. Though I could add a thick aluminum plate across the outside of the transom to better distribute the load (probably should do that anyway given the small size of the transom and the 225 HP Yamaha hanging on the back,,,)

I was also reading online about using 2 pieces dimensional lumber (maybe 2 x 12’s) as opposed to using a single (or more correctly 2 layered pieces) of plywood. Anyone out there know the pros/cons of using dimensional lumber in place of plywood for transoms?

A 3rd option would be to cut the top off the transom and the bottom of the splashwell to gain better access and then use the layered plywood to replace the transom and glass the splashwell back in place afterward.

Any advice you can offer is appreciated.

Lakepilot
08-02-2010, 04:15 AM
Here's a link to a resto that was done on a CVX-18. It included repairing the transom wihout removing the top deck.

http://www.andysclassicglastrons.com/cvx-18_restoration#Next

The fellows phone number is listed.

By the way, you could go to Sam's or Costco and buy a portable garage. They're cheap and will last long enough to get the job done.

XCR-700
08-02-2010, 06:18 AM
Interesting to see that the I/O version looks more accessible that the outboard version as it has no splashwell. Thats the real hiccup for me as the splashwell dips down about 7 inches over the transom wood and makes access from inside very tough unless you cut the splashwell bottom section out, or if your replace the wood with 2 pieces of dimensional lumber (like 2 " x 12") or possibly a 2 piece plywood transom split in the middle and maybe somehow overlapping in a way to provide strength,,,

I think most people just split the hull (top from bottom) but that is more than I can tackle and have any chance of getting it back on the water this year,,,

Hummm now that I think about a 2 piece plywood transom with overlapping sections, I'm thinking that I may be on to something,,, Maybe

Good tip about the portable garage!

Thanks

Ron's Fiberglassing USA
08-02-2010, 12:19 PM
You should bring it to a fiber glass shop, you could cut the top in the area that the transom is located. You need to get all the wet or damp wood out and grind transom wall w/ aleast 36grit then apply a good coat of resin. The wood should be glass and resin on both sides and if there are stringer those need to be cut back to fit the new wood in and inside pc should be as rough as the pc on the back side, then you have to clamp it. Marine plywood should be used. Never try to epoxy any thing that is wet or damp.