Water Hammer Arrestors..Washing Machine)

NoBozo · 12-22-2012, 07:51 PM

I just bought a NEW pair (Clothes Washer/Dryer) High end LG.

I'm Having a Mild banging .."water hammer":

I have looked at commercial "Water Hammer Suppressors" ... I am considering building my own......SOLDERING IT UP WITH COPPER Tube and FITTINGS....an AIR CHAMBER.

The fitting coming directly out of the washer is CPVC. It's a pretty strong plastic.....BUT I am a little hesitent to HANG the comercial supressor on it....cantalever (bending) stress.

Any advice here...??

NB

Rusty · 12-22-2012, 08:52 PM

I installed these on my hot and cold water shutoff valves for my washing machine. @ $13 each at Home Depot:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ct_description
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.
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ApS · 12-23-2012, 04:02 AM

A professional plumber installed these long copper "detours"—shock absorbers that trap air to silence the problem.

The cost to a home-handyman-plumber? ...about $2. To me, this file-photo shows very generous lengths

but it will depend on the length of your "run" to the washer.

Elsewhere, I've done the same installation with PVC without any issues: especially in a cottage with seasonal use, either type should work just fine.

NoBozo · 12-23-2012, 11:43 AM

Rusty: That Oatey suppressor is Exactly the one I'm looking at if I don't build my own. Home Depot around here is sold out..OR doesn't carry that brand. My local hardware store has them for $21.99..same model number. I like the quality better than the other similar brands that Home Depot has on the shelf.

APS: That's pretty much what I am considering doing. The store bought model is easier though.

NB

Rusty · 12-23-2012, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoBozo

Rusty: That Oatey suppressor is Exactly the one I'm looking at if I don't build my own. Home Depot around here is sold out..OR doesn't carry that brand. My local hardware store has them for $21.99..same model number. I like the quality better than the other similar brands that Home Depot has on the shelf.

APS: That's pretty much what I am considering doing. The store bought model is easier though.

NB

The ones that I put in work real well.

The problem with the one that APS posted is that they lose air and you have to drain them every once in a while. Also with the price of copper these days it would probably cost you as much.
The Oatey suppressor has a plunger in them at the top and air can't escape.

Good luck with whatever you do.

NoBozo · 12-23-2012, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

The ones that I put in work real well.

The problem with the one that APS posted is that they lose air and you have to drain them every once in a while. Also with the price of copper these days it would probably cost you as much.
The Oatey suppressor has a plunger in them at the top and air can't escape.

Good luck with whatever you do.

Looking at the Oatey Link: I like the part where everything is ("Sold Seperately")...probably including the washing machine.

NB

tummyman · 12-23-2012, 07:16 PM

Try EBay....search for Oatey 38600. One is one there for $13 plus 3.50 shipping to your door. Amazon (search for the same item) has them for $16.98 with free shipping and no gas costs to drive to Home Depot, etc. Surely you can wait for the delivery.....

NoBozo · 01-08-2013, 09:10 PM

This is what I did. Home grown. It's working. No more Water Hammer bangs. The original supply tubing is 1/2 inch. The "Chamber" is 12 inches of 3/4 inch tube with a cap on top and an elbow to connect it to the original tube. The washing machine and dryer are on the OTHER side of the insulated wall. The Hoses to the machine drop off the bottom of the faucets,

NoBozo · 01-08-2013, 09:49 PM

The "Oatey" supressors that Rusty suggested are much smaller. They have a piston inside that allows them to be positioned at ANY angle. My "Chambers" must be oriented Vertically to preserve the Air BUBBLE in the top of the chamber.

NB

PS: I would NOT recommend the procedure I took to anyone.. who is not TOTALLY confident in their skill in soldering wet tubing.

ApS · 01-09-2013, 04:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoBozo

This is what I did. Home grown. It's working. No more Water Hammer bangs. The original supply tubing is 1/2 inch. The "Chamber" is 12 inches of 3/4 inch tube with a cap on top and an elbow to connect it to the original tube. The washing machine and dryer are on the OTHER side of the insulated wall. The Hoses to the machine drop off the bottom of the faucets,

When the water is drained at island- and seasonal- cottages, those chambers can be half that length, and you could use any-old ½" tubing that is lying around. I've found that previously-soldered (used) tubing makes for easier fitting—just "tin" the new stuff with a coating of solder. To manage "wet" installations, I suggest stuffing bread into the tubing that is "leaking".

—> Soldering in cold and windy locations doesn't warm you up!

The gauge in the photo reminded me that I could have put an el-cheapo water pressure gauge at the top of one of those chambers.

In a search related to your original post, it was apparent that suppressors weren't consistent in fixing the problem, and required an occasional return to the store!

moose tracks · 02-02-2013, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

I installed these on my hot and cold water shutoff valves for my washing machine. @ $13 each at Home Depot:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ct_description
.
.
.
.
.

I recently purchased a LG washer and experienced significant water hammer. After reading Rusty's post, I purchased a pair of Oatey, Quiet Pipes 38600 water surge absorbers and my water hammer problem was solved. I could not find them at Home Depot so I purchased them on line at $14.87 & $4.00 shipping each which brought the total for two to $37.74. They are easy to install and can be mounted upright, on its side or pointing down. The only tool you need is a channel lock pliers. I would recommend this product for people who are experiencing water hammer.

Kamper · 02-03-2013, 03:02 PM

When I redid part of my home plumbing, I made some short uprights on T-fittings. They are installed on the horizontal runs. I have not had any problems and the practice in making these things up, came in handy too.

Good luck!

Rusty · 02-03-2013, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kamper

When I redid part of my home plumbing, I made some short uprights on T-fittings. They are installed on the horizontal runs. I have not had any problems and the practice in making these things up, came in handy too.

Good luck!

Putting short uprights in a horizontal line really doesn't do anything for water hammer. You need at least a 3/4" dia x 12"-24" long pipe to do any good. Even with putting in long ones they will fill with water over time and have to be drained.

I guess you had fun doing it so not all was lost.

Kamper · 02-03-2013, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

... Even with putting in long ones they will fill with water over time and have to be drained.

I guess you had fun doing it so not all was lost.

So far so good and if it hammers again I can drain hot and cold from the laundry tap but thanks for the heads up. These pieces were almost fun but the up and down combo joints at the end of the line for the shower and laundry cut-offs were more challenging.

NoBozo · 02-03-2013, 07:57 PM

Before I put in the two 12" do it myself air chambers..I had had an Oatey suppressor on the right (Cold) side ..oriented vertically.

After I replaced the Oatey Suppressor with my own vertical PAIR of air chambers ..On the Bench: I cut the OLD Oatey suppressor apart to see what was inside.

There was a little plastic free ranging piston with two "O" Rings. The Piston was at the TOP of the cylinder.....which indicated to me that the AIR above the piston was gone. The hammer damper was dead. The Oatey suppressor had been oriented Vertical.

I realy like the LG washer and dryer. They are almost silent..compared to the old machines. I Can't hear them running. There is a little "RingTone" that announces when the cycle is done....NB

NoBozo · 03-04-2016, 07:55 PM

I have been using my home made vertical tube suppressors ..previously pictured above. They Work: HOWEVER: They need to be drained every three months or so..depending on the frequency of use of the washing machine. Shut off the water main and draining takes about 15 minutes.

I'm now looking at commercially built "Mini Trols". They have a rubber diaphragm that separates the water from the air.

I haven't done the change out yet because the "Mini Trols" are about 1/16 inch TOO big in diameter to fit where the old vertical tubes are. Need to do un soldering and then re soldering of the cross connectors and elbows.

Soldering wet pipes is A PITA.

NB

Mini Trol suppressors:

http://www.amazon.com/Amtrol-Mini-Tr...mer+supressors

I have found them locally for less than $50.

Kamper · 03-06-2016, 08:26 AM

^

If your only problem with your home-made device is the time to drain your system, I suggest that you add shut-off valves just upstream from them.

Close the new valves and open the faucets. The process shouldn't take more than 5 minutes.

Good luck!

12-22-2012, 07:51 PM	#1
NoBozo Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Portsmouth. RI Posts: 2,231 Thanks: 400 Thanked 460 Times in 308 Posts	Water Hammer Arrestors..Washing Machine) I just bought a NEW pair (Clothes Washer/Dryer) High end LG. I'm Having a Mild banging .."water hammer": I have looked at commercial "Water Hammer Suppressors" ... I am considering building my own......SOLDERING IT UP WITH COPPER Tube and FITTINGS....an AIR CHAMBER. The fitting coming directly out of the washer is CPVC. It's a pretty strong plastic.....BUT I am a little hesitent to HANG the comercial supressor on it....cantalever (bending) stress. Any advice here...?? NB

12-22-2012, 08:52 PM	#2
Rusty Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 2,028 Thanks: 603 Thanked 687 Times in 425 Posts	I installed these on my hot and cold water shutoff valves for my washing machine. @ $13 each at Home Depot: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ct_description . . . . . __________________ It's never crowded along the extra mile.

01-08-2013, 09:10 PM	#8
NoBozo Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Portsmouth. RI Posts: 2,231 Thanks: 400 Thanked 460 Times in 308 Posts	This is what I did. Home grown. It's working. No more Water Hammer bangs. The original supply tubing is 1/2 inch. The "Chamber" is 12 inches of 3/4 inch tube with a cap on top and an elbow to connect it to the original tube. The washing machine and dryer are on the OTHER side of the insulated wall. The Hoses to the machine drop off the bottom of the faucets, Attached Images

03-04-2016, 07:55 PM	#16
NoBozo Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Portsmouth. RI Posts: 2,231 Thanks: 400 Thanked 460 Times in 308 Posts	Update I have been using my home made vertical tube suppressors ..previously pictured above. They Work: HOWEVER: They need to be drained every three months or so..depending on the frequency of use of the washing machine. Shut off the water main and draining takes about 15 minutes. I'm now looking at commercially built "Mini Trols". They have a rubber diaphragm that separates the water from the air. I haven't done the change out yet because the "Mini Trols" are about 1/16 inch TOO big in diameter to fit where the old vertical tubes are. Need to do un soldering and then re soldering of the cross connectors and elbows. Soldering wet pipes is A PITA. NB Mini Trol suppressors: http://www.amazon.com/Amtrol-Mini-Tr...mer+supressors I have found them locally for less than $50.

The Following User Says Thank You to Rusty For This Useful Post:
Slickcraft (12-23-2012)

12-23-2012, 04:02 AM	#3
ApS Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Florida (Sebring & Keys), Wolfeboro Posts: 5,788 Thanks: 2,084 Thanked 742 Times in 532 Posts	A professional plumber installed these long copper "detours"—shock absorbers that trap air to silence the problem. The cost to a home-handyman-plumber? ...about $2. To me, this file-photo shows very generous lengths but it will depend on the length of your "run" to the washer. Elsewhere, I've done the same installation with PVC without any issues: especially in a cottage with seasonal use, either type should work just fine.

12-23-2012, 11:43 AM	#4
NoBozo Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Portsmouth. RI Posts: 2,231 Thanks: 400 Thanked 460 Times in 308 Posts	Rusty: That Oatey suppressor is Exactly the one I'm looking at if I don't build my own. Home Depot around here is sold out..OR doesn't carry that brand. My local hardware store has them for $21.99..same model number. I like the quality better than the other similar brands that Home Depot has on the shelf. APS: That's pretty much what I am considering doing. The store bought model is easier though. NB

12-23-2012, 07:16 PM	#7
tummyman Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Moultonborough Posts: 779 Thanks: 233 Thanked 631 Times in 228 Posts	Try EBay....search for Oatey 38600. One is one there for $13 plus 3.50 shipping to your door. Amazon (search for the same item) has them for $16.98 with free shipping and no gas costs to drive to Home Depot, etc. Surely you can wait for the delivery.....

01-08-2013, 09:49 PM	#9
NoBozo Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Portsmouth. RI Posts: 2,231 Thanks: 400 Thanked 460 Times in 308 Posts	The "Oatey" supressors that Rusty suggested are much smaller. They have a piston inside that allows them to be positioned at ANY angle. My "Chambers" must be oriented Vertically to preserve the Air BUBBLE in the top of the chamber. NB PS: I would NOT recommend the procedure I took to anyone.. who is not TOTALLY confident in their skill in soldering wet tubing.

02-03-2013, 03:02 PM	#12
Kamper Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Thornton's Ferry Posts: 1,296 Thanks: 67 Thanked 166 Times in 126 Posts	When I redid part of my home plumbing, I made some short uprights on T-fittings. They are installed on the horizontal runs. I have not had any problems and the practice in making these things up, came in handy too. Good luck!

02-03-2013, 07:57 PM	#15
NoBozo Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Portsmouth. RI Posts: 2,231 Thanks: 400 Thanked 460 Times in 308 Posts	Before I put in the two 12" do it myself air chambers..I had had an Oatey suppressor on the right (Cold) side ..oriented vertically. After I replaced the Oatey Suppressor with my own vertical PAIR of air chambers ..On the Bench: I cut the OLD Oatey suppressor apart to see what was inside. There was a little plastic free ranging piston with two "O" Rings. The Piston was at the TOP of the cylinder.....which indicated to me that the AIR above the piston was gone. The hammer damper was dead. The Oatey suppressor had been oriented Vertical. I realy like the LG washer and dryer. They are almost silent..compared to the old machines. I Can't hear them running. There is a little "RingTone" that announces when the cycle is done....NB

03-06-2016, 08:26 AM	#17
Kamper Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Thornton's Ferry Posts: 1,296 Thanks: 67 Thanked 166 Times in 126 Posts	^ If your only problem with your home-made device is the time to drain your system, I suggest that you add shut-off valves just upstream from them. Close the new valves and open the faucets. The process shouldn't take more than 5 minutes. Good luck!