.....replacing trailer wood bunks?

[fatlazyless]

Ok.....I bought a Yacht Club trailer, made in 2004, from a neighbor last October, for $240; a trailer with two six foot long padded bunks designed to hold a personal water craft like a Sea Doo.

I plan to use it with a 16' sailboat that weighs about 150-lbs and want to replace the six foot long bunks with eight foot long bunks. The original bunks are 2x4's covered with grey padding.

TWO questions here ...... plus a THIRD bonus question .... plus a FOURTH wack-a-doozie insurance coverage question!

1) Should I use pressure treated or regular non-pressure treated 2x4' x eight feets?

2) To be equipment-vehicle road legal, do I need to move the two tail-lights from the rear of the steel trailer frame to the rear of the extended 2x4 bunks that will extend two feet back from the steel frame? I suspect that I do because the lights are called tail-lights which suggests they belong on the very rear of the trailer .....ie ....like a tail on a dog?
..........

Here's a third question, not about the trailer but about the registration hull numbers .... just last week I bought a craigslist-on-Cape Cod-1987-Saroca-16' sailboat fixer-upper for $500, and am in the process of fixing it up, and painting it brite green.

www.saroca.com

3) A 16' sailboat is only required to have the yearly (orange sticker-2014) and not have the reg numbers displayed on the bow hull area. If this 16' sailboat has an electric trolling motor, does this rule change, and does having an electric stern mounted motor require it to have the reg numbers displayed on the hull in the two normal locations up front on the bow? Also, ditto that for running lights; a 16' sailboat requires a single white laight at night, while a motorboat requires running lights .....


And, here's a fourth question.....yikes......am I full of questions today or what?


4) You know that having a motor on a sailboat like this, a 16' sailboat, raises the price for the annual registration......the registration process asked me if it has a motor and an electric trolling motor was considered to be 10-hp by the MP registration process and it cost more....even though it is the equal of maybe 1/2 of one horsepower.....like maybe ten dollars extra up to about 38-dollars. So, this raises another question, a forth question, boy am I full of questions today or what; if this 16' sailboat registration has paid the extra money for the motor option and is involved in a collision with another boat, but at the time of the accident did NOT have the portable outboard electric motor on the boat.....it was left in the shed ashore......for insurance purposes.....is this sailboat now considered a non-motorized boat which is covered by standard home owners insurance, or does having the motor option on the registration automatically make it a motor boat, legally, which requires separate insurance coverage ....because the motor option is on the registration......but not on the boat ...... at the time of the collision, or the sinking, or some type of accident on the water?

Good insurance coverage costs about 102-dollars extra for this sailboat with a little electric trolling motor, but would be covered by standard home owners policy if it had no motor (?).



....nice thing about a sailboat..... at least ... the wind is free!

[Phantom]

As this will be in and out of the water -- I would suggest using pressure treated wood. It will endure much longer.

As for the tail lights -- I see no reason to move them. On all trailers that I have had the "Tail light" is mounted on or near the rear wheel well of the trailer and the boat partially covers it.

that being said, as you will only be 1-2 feet of overhang they should be more than adequately visible (which is the key)



.

[AC2717]

you would have to read/consult your policy/agent
Most policies cover up to a 18 foot boat with up to XXX amount of horsepower
my first answer would be yes it would be covered for liability but without looking at your policy I cannot confirm.
It would not be in any way covered for damage/theft/vandelism to it, if it was outside 100 feet of your property

[MAXUM]

I would use PT replacements for your bunks. Conventional wood will just rot especially when covered in carpet which holds the moisture in. I've done bunk replacement surgery on all my trailers and always go with PT. Extending the bunk length.. probably not that big a deal but I would be very careful to make sure the boat sets well in relation to weight distribution. If you have to much weight behind the axle with a light tongue weight, the trailer may tend to want to sway on you which is not desired.

Tail lights are not required to be on the end of the trailer, I would leave them as is provided they are good and visible from the rear with the boat on the trailer. In fact I would want them on the outer most rear corner of the trailer for best visibility.

I was always under the impression that registration numbers must be used for any motorized vessel of any length. That would include a sailboat of any size once a motor is part of the package, even if it's removable. I would error on the side of caution and put the bow numbers on, it's not like it's that expensive to do it. What is it 25 cents per number/letter?

Not sure why you are surprised the registration is more if you have a motor.

[fatlazyless]

Originally Posted by MAXUM

Not sure why you are surprised the registration is more if you have a motor.

No, I'm not surprised about that, but I should have thought ahead that using a trolling motor would change the insurance coverage .... and am thinking about going back to the Marine Patrol and asking to have the motor user fee removed from the registration, or else re-registering it without a motor because having a motor, even an electric trolling motor has consequences; (1)separate insurance coverage vs standard home owners, (2) running lights vs a single white light, and (3) bow numbers vs just the orange 2014 sticker.

I wonder if they will refund the ten dollars and rescind the motor endorsement, or if I have to re-register it all over and and just use the oars and the sail and not have a motor?

[Dave R]

Use PT wood for the bunks but make sure they are isolated from the trailer frame. Make plastic spacers and washers to prevent the bunks and lag bolts from being on direct contact with metal. Also, use stainless steel staples to hold the carpet in place.

[chipj29]

Like others have said, I would spend a couple extra $$ on PT wood for the bunks. They should last much longer than standard 2x4's.

Regarding the tail lights, they are fine where they are. The PWC on my trailer overhangs the lights by a couple feet, never had an problems. Just keep in mind that if your boat overhangs the end of the trailer substantially, hang a red flag on the back just to be safe.

[MAXUM]

Originally Posted by fatlazyless

I wonder if they will refund the ten dollars and rescind the motor endorsement, or if I have to re-register it all over and and just use the oars and the sail and not have a motor?

I bet the MP will re-issue you a new motor-less registration for a $25 processing fee

[Rangervx]

pressure treated lumber is an absolute must...no need to move the lights...they will be in compliance...may want to spend just a few bucks and upgrade to LED lights while you're at it...brighter and will outlast the trailer if installed properly...

[ApS]

Originally Posted by fatlazyless

Ok.....I bought a Yacht Club trailer, made in 2004, from a neighbor last October, for $240; a trailer with two six foot long padded bunks designed to hold a personal water craft like a Sea Doo.

I plan to use it with a 16' sailboat that weighs about 150-lbs and want to replace the six foot long bunks with eight foot long bunks. The original bunks are 2x4's covered with grey padding.

TWO questions here ...... plus a THIRD bonus question .... plus a FOURTH wack-a-doozie insurance coverage question!

1) Should I use pressure treated or regular non-pressure treated 2x4' x eight feets?

2) To be equipment-vehicle road legal, do I need to move the two tail-lights from the rear of the steel trailer frame to the rear of the extended 2x4 bunks that will extend two feet back from the steel frame? I suspect that I do because the lights are called tail-lights which suggests they belong on the very rear of the trailer .....ie ....like a tail on a dog?
..........

Here's a third question, not about the trailer but about the registration hull numbers .... just last week I bought a craigslist-on-Cape Cod-1987-Saroca-16' sailboat fixer-upper for $500, and am in the process of fixing it up, and painting it brite green.

www.saroca.com

3) A 16' sailboat is only required to have the yearly (orange sticker-2014) and not have the reg numbers displayed on the bow hull area. If this 16' sailboat has an electric trolling motor, does this rule change, and does having an electric stern mounted motor require it to have the reg numbers displayed on the hull in the two normal locations up front on the bow? Also, ditto that for running lights; a 16' sailboat requires a single white laight at night, while a motorboat requires running lights .....


And, here's a fourth question.....yikes......am I full of questions today or what?


4) You know that having a motor on a sailboat like this, a 16' sailboat, raises the price for the annual registration......the registration process asked me if it has a motor and an electric trolling motor was considered to be 10-hp by the MP registration process and it cost more....even though it is the equal of maybe 1/2 of one horsepower.....like maybe ten dollars extra up to about 38-dollars. So, this raises another question, a forth question, boy am I full of questions today or what; if this 16' sailboat registration has paid the extra money for the motor option and is involved in a collision with another boat, but at the time of the accident did NOT have the portable outboard electric motor on the boat.....it was left in the shed ashore......for insurance purposes.....is this sailboat now considered a non-motorized boat which is covered by standard home owners insurance, or does having the motor option on the registration automatically make it a motor boat, legally, which requires separate insurance coverage ....because the motor option is on the registration......but not on the boat ...... at the time of the collision, or the sinking, or some type of accident on the water?

Good insurance coverage costs about 102-dollars extra for this sailboat with a little electric trolling motor, but would be covered by standard home owners policy if it had no motor (?).



....nice thing about a sailboat..... at least ... the wind is free!

And your lightweight boat (even with so little sail area) will leave a wake, even when there is no sign of wind.

I'd sell the Sea Doo trailer, and look around for one that is matched closer to the 150-pound weight of your sailboat.

My experience with a similar boat is that the heavy-duty trailer will beat up lightweight boats. Follow any empty boat trailer, and you'll see that "rebounds" can send the trailer wheels many inches clear of the roadway. Any lightweight boat will suffer as a result. The trailer I suggest you look for should have ¼-elliptical (leaf) springs. The ride will be better for your boat, and you can "pocket" the difference.

(Photo of the subject trailer and ¼-elliptical springs below).

In my most-recent purchase, the trailer came with the boat. After arriving back home, I was astonished to see I'd forgotten about my Vise-Grip pliers, which I'd left on the deck—but more-so—that they hadn't moved while towing the trailer and boat back home.

If you're staying with your Sea Doo trailer, I would use PT wood for the bunks, but not necessarily "2-by". While pressure-treated yellow pine is not guaranteed to be particularly strong, 5/4s would be ideal IMHO; however, you'd have to be very selective in the individual piece(s) selected. (Straight grain, no "open" knots, no splits). When securing the boat, be sure that the strapping encompasses boat and bunks (only). And that the bunks are secure to their mountings. Consider attaching split "swim noodles" where the bunks contact the hull.

If your sailboat has Styrofoam blocks for flotation, the above suggestions are even more important, as they can be dislodged and lost. (Not so much from operating on the water, but from a "bad trailer ride").

As for the "motor", next season just carry it inside the boat. If you have to use it, you can always say "It was an emergency, officer".




.

[fatlazyless]

All the rough road surface on the Meredith Neck Rd, a six mile long State of NH owned road that is totally within the Town of Meredith makes for slow going when towing a trailer. The speed limit is 40-mph but due to the crappy condition of the asphalt road surface I slow down to about 15-mph when towing a trailer over it ..... at least over the four different worst crumpled asphalt section areas that have about four different layers of aging asphalt repair patches all spackled down.



.....oh well?

[glennsteely]

Doing a deck repair last year for a buddy, while looking at a lumber list from Lowes I noticed that they have 2X4's made out of composite material. Not sure what brands they had them in, but I'm sure I saw them because I said to myself that I never knew that they made them before. They would outlast all other material.

[Dave R]

Originally Posted by glennsteely

Doing a deck repair last year for a buddy, while looking at a lumber list from Lowes I noticed that they have 2X4's made out of composite material. Not sure what brands they had them in, but I'm sure I saw them because I said to myself that I never knew that they made them before. They would outlast all other material.

Not all composite lumber may strong enough. That stuff is generally not meant for structural applications thought there are some brands that are (Fiberforce comes to mind). If I were going to use it, I would drill it, countersink it on the top and use carriage bolts with nylock nuts. I would not torque them down really tightly, just snugly. I don't think they'll loosen like they would in wood.