Given the last situation you mentioned, my thought is one of the floats is bad. When you hit the wake it would move the float into the correct position.
With a multi carb setup, having one carb not working correctly will allow the engine to run, but it will be running down a cylinder and will be very noticable. Low rpm will seem somewhat normal (there are tell tale signs of a cylinder not firing but it has to be heard and you need to know what to listen for, most folks just hear noise when listening to an engine run), but when you increase the throttle the bad cylinder will increasingly drag on the other two. This prevents the total package from optimizing and running out to higher rpm.
A question for those familar with this engine. Are the floats on these rubber or brass?
To test a bad float: Remove the float pin hinge and submerge in gasoline, look for bubbles. If no bubbles, release and see if it floats. If it passes both those test, pick it up and shake it next to your ear, there should be no sound at all (hold the pine hinge when doing this).
Either way I would not run this unit for prolonged periods, if it is a cylinder not firing, that puts a lot of pressure on the crank and will wear out the bearings next to that rod.
I would be very surprised if it was electrical related, given the last situation you presented. That would be a one in a million shot that two very different events (wake and turning) would recreate a lost connection.
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