Quote:
Originally Posted by SeventySeven
Here's what we have done with a 20+ year history of success. Not the cheapest, but absolutely the most effective overall:
Obtain a new or gently used deep well pump of proper size for your water needs...we are using 1/3 and 1/2 hp at two locations. Remove any built in check valve(s) in or at the pump. Build what's called a "deadman" from 4" PVC fittings...specifically, the pump slides into a short section of 4" pipe and uses a tee and street 90 fittings pointed up with caps on their ends. Drill many small holes to make a "strainer"...looks like salt and pepper shakers when done. Blank off the opposite with a cap or fittings to capture the pump wires and up-pipe...seal tight as possible to prevent sand entry. Place in not less than 5 feet of good water. Sleeve 3/4" up-pipe and wires in much larger black poly where you hit shore...hopefully under the sand and rocks.
Accumulator tank and pressure switch can live under or in your residence. Install a check valve in the up-pipe where it hits the tank...pressure switch must be installed after the check and before the tank (use a tee). Suggest a manual bypass valve around the check and a local manual drain...all clustered at the tank.
It's silent, reliable (15 years since we last even looked at the pump), can be used mid-winter, self-drains, self-primes, no suction air leak issues, etc.
All the usual cautions still apply for fall draining but plumbed properly most of the work is done by opening fixtures, bypass and drain. Think it through.
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There is a problem with using a deep well pump in the lake. I have considered this option in the past and I think it would work well except that you are running 240 volt electricity into the lake. In my opinion this is an extremely dangerous thing to do. The possibility of someone in the water being electrocuted is unacceptable high.