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jmen24 · 12-12-2011, 06:11 PM

One thing you can do to prolong the life of your blades to to use the proper blade for each type of cut you are performing. Sometimes this does not makes sense (read as two or three small cuts), but using a combo blade to rip any volume of wood will eat it up pretty quick, no matter what the species is.

Having multiples of each style helps when sharpening is needed, as you always have a fresh knife on the peg. I am sure not everyone is this bad but in my personal shop, I have between 20 and 30 blades hanging around, most 10's and a few 12's. If you happen to have any real quality blades, send them back to the manufacturer for sharpening, most due this as a service to their customers (still costs money). My Forest blades only get sharpened by the manufacturer, they understand the tolerances and at $200 a piece, its not worth the risk.

Sharpening horror story for those that care. A friend of mine sent in his crown saw to "the local sharpening guy" and asked him multiple times if he knew how to sharpen it. The response was an "of course I do" with a touch of attitude. When the saw was picked up, it was nice and sharp and all the teeth were so straight they all would touch a levels edge. The problem is that a crown saws teeth swale from front to back creating an arched cutting edge. The sharpener thought he was correcting a flawed saw, but in reality ruined a saw that has not been produced in over 40 years. Its been sent out all over the country to get tuned back up and it always comes back with a note attached, that it can't be corrected.

So, always make sure that anything special receives the attention it deserves.

12-12-2011, 06:11 PM	#14
jmen24 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 1,139 Thanks: 223 Thanked 319 Times in 181 Posts	One thing you can do to prolong the life of your blades to to use the proper blade for each type of cut you are performing. Sometimes this does not makes sense (read as two or three small cuts), but using a combo blade to rip any volume of wood will eat it up pretty quick, no matter what the species is. Having multiples of each style helps when sharpening is needed, as you always have a fresh knife on the peg. I am sure not everyone is this bad but in my personal shop, I have between 20 and 30 blades hanging around, most 10's and a few 12's. If you happen to have any real quality blades, send them back to the manufacturer for sharpening, most due this as a service to their customers (still costs money). My Forest blades only get sharpened by the manufacturer, they understand the tolerances and at $200 a piece, its not worth the risk. Sharpening horror story for those that care. A friend of mine sent in his crown saw to "the local sharpening guy" and asked him multiple times if he knew how to sharpen it. The response was an "of course I do" with a touch of attitude. When the saw was picked up, it was nice and sharp and all the teeth were so straight they all would touch a levels edge. The problem is that a crown saws teeth swale from front to back creating an arched cutting edge. The sharpener thought he was correcting a flawed saw, but in reality ruined a saw that has not been produced in over 40 years. Its been sent out all over the country to get tuned back up and it always comes back with a note attached, that it can't be corrected. So, always make sure that anything special receives the attention it deserves.