System Drawing / Parts List for Lake Water Irrigation System
 

I would like to draw water from the lake to irrigate but have been unable to find a good systems drawing / parts list for the do-it-yourselfer. I know I need a jet pump, pressure tank, foot valve, control box, plastic pipe and “stuff”, but I want to make only one trip to the hardware store (OK, two). Any hints or is my best bet to call Gilford Well?

there are many other companies out there that do the same installs of irrigation systems. Lacey irrigation, lakes region pump and irrigation are the 2 that i use mostly. if you want some phone #'s let me know.

Lowe's has lots of lawn irrigation, drip irrigation, pumps and stuff. While there, maybe get some free photocopies at the service desk of their Scott's Lawn Irrigation ($18.00) book detailing the shallow well pump installation.

A little talked about method is to put the pump at the bottom of the intake and in the lake. The Lowe's 1/6 hp pump has proven itself to be extremely durable and will run and run for months, or more, as an ice bubbler. A $62. 1/6hp pump, garden hose, and extension cord is all it takes, and there's no dealing with foot valves, pressure tanks, pressure switch, or air leaks........a very basic and reliable system. Want water, plug in the electric plug.....turn it off....etc....so simple even a flatlander could do it.

Two trips, eh?
 

Everything you buy is predicated on the height to which the water must be pumped. (Or the maximum height to which you'd ever need to pump on the lot—say, in the case of a well failure.) My location isn't Winnipesaukee-extreme at 25'-height, and we get by fine with a 1" diameter intake pipe and ¾-HP pump.

If we're talkin' less than six feet, you could get many seasons of irrigation with spending less than $100—for everything! :cool:

Otherwise, I'd double-up on the hose clamps at every fitting, run the pipe as deep into the lake as possible to limit stoppages by algae, and would buy extra pipe connections and clamps while you're at the hardware store. ("T"s, "L"s, and straight connections).

Keep the foot valve at least a foot off the bottom—even if "disturbed" by an errant anchor. The orientation of the foot valve is not important. (Up, down, straight).

For ease of maintenance, you might consider special Marine hose clamps that eliminate the primary complaint—rusted screws. Test with a magnet: the best clamp screws, being minimally magnetic, resist being lifted by a magnet.

You'll need bricks to keep the intake pipe from floating to the surface, and cable ties to secure the bricks to the pipe.

More reading on the topic:
http://www.winnipesaukee.com/forums/...ghlight=bricks
http://www.winnipesaukee.com/forums/...ghlight=bricks
http://www.winnipesaukee.com/forums/...ighlight=valve

BTW: You'll never finish this on just two trips to the hardware store. ;)