Priming a Jet pump for water

[ApS]

In years past, I've always bundled up, gone into the muddy crawl space, removed the plug on the top of the pump, and poured in about <three gallons of water to fill the intake pipe and pump. (The "new" fill-water is stored next to the pump at season's end).

This year, the first gallon refused to go down the pipe, and what I had was an ounce of bubbles plugging the intake pipe opening, accepting no more water. (Maybe...shouldn't have reused an empty laundry-soap jug?)

I bought a $4 adapter*** at the hardware store, screwed it into the kitchen faucet, attached a stretchy clear plastic hose to the adapter, and siphoned the fill water into the kitchen spout -- backwards. (Opening only the COLD water faucet).

Plugging in the pump, it started pumping immediately, and better than I can ever remember. The hot water tank filled in just a few minutes. The shower's hot water faucet was opened to allow the air -- now being displaced by water -- out.

I had primed the pump from upstairs -- and comfortably indoors -- for the first time. Next year, I add anti-freeze to the stored "fill-water" containers, and store them in the bathtub for next Spring.

You plumbers out there: Is this what New Yorkers call a "kluge"? Or is this a D'Oh, for my never having thought of it? (I'll not tell you how many seasons it took to "discover" this).

Could there be a downside to this idea?

***The adapter was originally for those old portable kitchen dishwashers, before people installed dishwashers permanently in the larger kitchens you see today. The adapters don't work on bathroom spouts. Go figure; but you know plumbing!. :rolleye2:

[fatlazyless]

Plumbing always works best when it is full of water...and another easy way to start up the plumbing is to throw a 1/6th hp pump into the lake and attach a garden hose from the pump to the outside garden hose faucet. Open an upstairs faucet so the air can be purged and the whole cottage plumbing will get purged of any rv antifreeze or unchlorinated lake water......to be replaced with more unchlorinated lake water. These 1/6hp pumps will ALWAYS work immediately and do not need any priming..........nice!

[SIKSUKR]

I'm with FLL on this one APR.His method is a very simple Yankee solution!I have a LITTLE GIANT pump that works great and cost about $70. SS

[Pine Island Guy]

a couple of years ago I installed a boiler valve on a "T" where my intake pipe comes out of the lake. With the purchase of a $6.99 "drill pump" on my cordless drill and a couple of short lengths of garden hose it takes about 5 minutes to pump enought water up into the system (and the pump infrastructure) to prime the pump. Water is easier to "push" up into the system then "pull" up, which is why the cheapo drill pump works...

MELT MELT MELT!!!

P.I.G.

[ApS]

I'm with FLL on this one APR. His method is a very simple Yankee solution!I have a LITTLE GIANT pump that works great and cost about $70. SSI didn't think to try this with my 1/6 HP pump/garden hose attachment because it won't pump up from the lake very high.

I'm located on a steep slope such as they have on Rattlesnake Island, the Broads side. It's about 20 feet in altitude from the water to the pump. Should I give that little pump a 2nd chance?

Oops. Forget that -- the snow was too deep and treacherous to get to the lake -- and the same scenario could appear next year.

I could use that pump inside a deep bucket to prime backwards into a hose bib, though. Hmmm. Hadn't thought of that.

[fatlazyless]

With the pump at the top, like in a shallow well pump, it can only raise the water about 30'. With the pump at the bottom, pushing the water up hill, the physical dynamics are very much changed and the water can be raised a whole lot more.

Shopping the golden yard sale week around labor day, sometime back, net me a nice blue 1/6hp pump for just ten bucks from one of those four bed- 2 1/2 bath wf homes that now go for $1,500,000.00. Gosh, did he ever sell that pump for not enough, ha-ha-ha!

[ApS]

Some mornings, I can only hope that the intake water-line hasn't gotten frozen somewhere along the line.

1) Where is it most likely to freeze (lake or crawl-space pump)?
2) Is there a passive way to prevent freezing? (It's already black in color, and mostly hidden by pine needles).
3) Is there an alarm to prevent the pump from turning on under frozen-waterline conditions?
4) How long will a "once-primed-wet" pump run, and not be damaged while not able to pump water? Ten minutes? An hour?
5) Would you replace bearings, or just buy "new"? (Optional question for FLL -- I know that answer to "buying new".

Just any one (of the five) answer(s) is fine -- I just thought I'd cluster them).

[Eki]

I fought with a jet pump sollution for a few years. Although I was only drawing 10' in elevation, I was drawing over 100' overall. You can loose prime for a number of reasons and repriming the pump is always a pain specially with long draws. just a little POS in your foot valve is all it takes!

I found no passive solution to freezing. There are heater tape solutions as well as heated pipe solutions.

disregarding the freezing issue, if you create a little pump enclosure down at the water level and pump up instead of drawing up, many of the issues are diminished.

Further you could put a deep-well pump in the lake and all these issues go away completely

[SIKSUKR]

APR,I'd be very surprised if any part of your system froze now.Even with a few nights of sub freezing temps it would be hard for any damaging freezing to take place.Your living there now aren't you?If so you probably run water more than a few times a day.If your not,and it gives you peace of mind,leave the water trickling somewhere to make the pump turn on a few times a day.I would feel comfortable with any of the above even if YOU had given me this advice.Just kidding.I know we butt heads on certain issues but for me it stops right there!Good luck and oh yah,when you write about other topics that are not "hot button" issues,like your pieces on natures wonders, I find your thoughts very interesting. SS

[ApS]

disregarding the freezing issue, if you create a little pump enclosure down at the water level and pump up instead of drawing up, many of the issues are diminished.
This is probably what I'll do when I need to replace the present pump; however, I did have a ground-fault in the lake that my dog discovered. (The ground stake had failed -- don't ask how, but it was replaced by an electrician).

I've been nervous about electricity around the water ever since.

"APR, I'd be very surprised if any part of your system froze now. Even with a few nights of sub freezing temps it would be hard for any damaging freezing to take place..."
It already has, and got it shut down in less than a minute.

I was asked to a Winnipesaukee wedding in February -- eek! -- and I agreed. :eek: These season-stretching efforts have turned out to be challenging/fun; but my family won't join me -- as yet.


I found no passive solution to freezing. There are heater tape solutions as well as heated pipe solutions. I'm wondering if I replaced the 1-inch intake water line with a 2-inch (above the water level), would my pump still draw OK?

Two-inch pipe would take longer to freeze and there would be more thermo-siphon circulation from the lake. (Like in those early English cars, and the Fiat Giardinetta).

"...and oh yah,when you write about other topics that are not "hot button" issues,like your pieces on natures wonders, I find your thoughts very interesting."
What is an APR, anyway?

What's a "hot button" issue?

:)

[Merrymeeting]

I've found that the easiest method for priming my pump is to run a hose from my next door neighbors spigot. Works every time! :laugh: